
For its physical and political geography, and for the unique scientific discoveries abounding in the Karakoram mountains, Hunza is simply the most extraordinary valley I know of in the greater Himalayan chain. Consequently I have found no need to perpetuate the trite myths of Shangri La, or the ‘Hunzas’ perfect diet’, or of their fabled longevity. The only thing this humble Ismaili community ever had an abundance of were rocks – and their greatest achievement is that from such unfavourable beginnings they have created the most peaceful, least fanatical, best educated and well organised valley in Pakistan today. These present stories and essays are taken from notes written during two visits to Hunza totalling nine months in 1987 and 1988. Some were originally intended to be included in my British colonial history titled "Hunza and the Raj", which, after several years of wide ranging research, had simply become too long. So this potentially useful trekking journal mostly deals with my personal experiences of the Hunza, as well as giving plenty of local informative. I have published these notes separately here as a complimentary supplement for those who have read the full work – and also as a taster for those who have not. A secondary intention has been to represent some more friendly experiences of Pakistan, rather than the dire ‘bad press’ the country receives in the West, as in four visits between 1970 and 1988, totalling a year in the country, I never had any trouble whatsoever. To archaeologists, anthropologists, mountaineers, and elitist back-packers Pakistan is well known as one of the most exciting and hospitable countries in the world. The 24 photos included were taken on Kodachrome slide film during my second visit.